NYCs hottest new restaurant is a steakhouse in a…
Grand Central Terminal, America’s best railroad nexus, deserved a great American restaurant. Brand-new Palladino’s Steak & Seafood is it.
The space was sadly darkish after a kitchen fire destroyed Michael Jordan’s Steakhouse seven long years in the past. Now, stroll past a blue millwork bourbon bar and the main eating room on the north and west balconies boasts views of the terminal’s throbbing, vaulted concourse. Amidst the grandeur, you can nearly hear the whistle of the long-gone Twentieth Century Limited.
The carpeted, white-tablecloth luxurious of David Rockwell’s design with Art Deco accents evokes the glamour of the streamliner period as nicely. Banquettes and cubicles, velvet-upholstered in inexperienced and blue, are so cozy you don’t need to go away.
Chef Sam Hazen carves prime rib from a tableside trolley at Palladino’s, a grand new steakhouse at Grand Central. Brian Zak/NY Post
Prime rib from an Iowa ranch is slow-roasted and herb-coated with just enough peppery crust to set off the meat’s lush, underlying taste. Brian Zak/NY Post
The home has been packed day and evening since it opened a few weeks in the past — outstanding, contemplating that proprietor Joe Palladino’s identify is little identified in New York, although he was born in the Bronx and was an NYPD cop before he moved west to launch eating places in Texas and Las Vegas. (The eating room’s blue trim is meant to mirror his past vocation.)
The menu by chef Sam Hazen, previously a prime mover in the Tao empire, is worthy of the setting. It’s a something-for-everyone lineup, from a cute little $25 burger to a $260 olive-fed ribeye.
Hazen turned out so many wonderful dishes, it was exhausting to keep monitor of them. All are from the traditional American steakhouse secure but with enough tweaks to set them aside from the herd.
A foie gras and filet mignon slider from Palladino’s Steak & Seafood is served with a stack of fried potato truffles. Brian Zak/NY Post
Shrimp cocktail ($34) is served two methods. The cold pair catch fire with Holy Schmitt’s cocktail sauce; the new ones are butter-poached. Brian Zak/NY Post
Dover sole goujonettes ($62), evenly battered to a golden flip, put an elegant twist to fish and chips. Brian Zak/NY Post
Shrimp cocktail ($34) is served two methods. The cold pair catch fire with Holy Schmitt’s cocktail sauce; the new ones are butter-poached. They’re equally succulent. Dover sole goujonettes ($62), evenly battered to a golden flip, put an elegant twist to fish and chips.
But it’s a steakhouse, and the cuts I had positioned in the league of Daniel Boulud’s great La Tete D’Or.
Prime rib carved on a tableside trolley is sometimes more spectacle than a hungry diner needs, but Hazen’s boneless quantity from an Iowa ranch is slow-roasted and herb-coated with just enough peppery crust to set off the meat’s lush, underlying taste. Served with traditional horseradish sauce, the $125 giant was more than two of us might end.
The main Palladino’s eating room on Grand Central’s north and west balconies boasts views of the terminal’s throbbing, vaulted concourse. Brian Zak/NY Post
The same care went into the 24-ounce prime “cowboy” steak ($112). The meat, cooked completely medium-rare, was correctly “rested” for fifteen minutes before carving to promote the absorption of juice, ensuing in deep, mineral-rich taste uniformly unfold throughout the cut. A brushing of butter, pepper and Balinese sea salt accomplished the bundle and a trio of sauces — tangy, chimichurri and au poivre — have been icing on the cake.
Our only minor disappointment was a $72 “steakhouse board,” a fussy little plate that included a solitary shrimp, filet mignon tartare, a slider and marrow, none of which blew us away.
Truly candy was a giant wedge of seven-layer chocolate cake ($28), star of the dessert lineup. It was the uncommon model of the overworked staple where the layers really tasted different from one another, thanks to alternating bands of darkish, milk and Dulcey (blond) chocolate — all of them soaked in La Colombe espresso
The seven-layer chocolate cake ($28) is the star of the dessert lineup Brian Zak/NY Post
A soft-serve sundae at Palladino’s comes with enjoyable toppings on the facet. Brian Zak/NY Post
The holidays are a great time to go to Grand Central even if you’re not chasing a prepare, and Palladino’s is the crown jewel in the terminal’s culinary assortment that contains the glowing Grand Brasserie and the historic Oyster Bar downstairs.
But this is Palladino’s second. Sip some bourbon from the bar or wine from the great record and you would possibly even hear the twentieth Century Limited to savor with the steak.
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